Quick care

Pear

Pears do well here if they are blight-resistant Southern varieties. Feed them hard and you will lose them.

Free pear reminders, four times a year

Leave your email and at the start of each season, spring, summer, fall and winter, we will send you one short note about this plant: what it is about to do, and what it needs from you. Written for Central Florida, by the people who grew it.

We will never spam you and we will never sell or share your address with anyone. Four emails a year about your plants, nothing else, and one click stops them for good. We do not pass your details to any other company, ever.

Right now: Fall

Growth slows and the leaves begin to go. A quiet season for a pear.

What to do

  • Do not feed.
  • Look over the trunk and main limbs for sunken, dark cankers, which is where blight overwinters, and mark them for winter removal.
  • Rake up fallen leaves and fruit.
  • Keep mulch back off the trunk.

The quick care card

The same three columns as the sign on your plant.

Planting and the first 30 days

Sun
Full sun, 6+ hours daily.
Soil
Well-drained soil is best.
Planting
Plant at the same depth as the pot.
Mulch
Add 2 to 3 inches of mulch, but keep it away from the trunk.
Water
Daily for the first week, then 2 to 3 times weekly for the rest of the first month. Water deeply.
Feed
Use a light fertiliser after new growth starts.

Ongoing care

Water
Water during dry spells.
Feed
Feed in spring.
Prune
Prune in winter to shape the tree.
Thin fruit
Thin crowded fruit for better size.

What to expect

Growth after 1 year
Often 2 to 4+ feet of new growth.
Fruiting
Often in 2 to 4 years.
Pollination
Many pears fruit better with a second variety nearby.
Key tip
Good sun and air flow help reduce disease.

Full care

Pyrus

Fire blight, and why you should underfeed a pear

Fire blight is a bacterial disease that comes in through the flowers in warm wet weather, runs down the shoot, and leaves the tip black and bent over like a shepherd's crook. In a bad year it can take a whole young tree. Florida springs are warm and wet, so the question is how to live with it rather than whether it will appear.

The first answer is the variety. Hood, Flordahome, Pineapple and Kieffer are grown here precisely because they tolerate it; a Bartlett will be killed.

The second answer is counter-intuitive: feed a pear less than you think. Fire blight travels fastest through soft, fast, sappy growth, so a well-fed pear pushing three feet of succulent shoot is handing the disease a motorway. One light spring feed is enough, and a pear on reasonable soil often needs none at all.

When you see it, cut it out. Take the affected shoot off at least eight to twelve inches below the lowest visible damage, into clean wood, and wipe the blade with alcohol between every cut. Pruning blight with dirty secateurs spreads it, which is a mistake you make once.

Pollination

Most pears set a far better crop with a second variety flowering nearby. Hood and Flordahome are the classic Florida pairing and flower together. One pear on its own will usually give you some fruit, and two will give you noticeably more.

Pick it hard and ripen it indoors

A pear left to ripen on the tree goes gritty and brown in the middle while the outside still looks perfect. Pick when the fruit is still firm, when it changes from grass green to a paler yellow-green and the little lenticels on the skin turn brown, and when a fruit lifted to the horizontal parts easily from the spur. Then ripen it in the house for a week or two.

This is the step that separates people who think pears are disappointing from people who grow them.

Through the year

The four notes we email, all in one place.

Spring

Flowering, then fruit set, and the whole fire blight season in one go. Warm wet weather during bloom is the risk.

  • Feed once, lightly, or not at all. This is the season where generosity does harm.
  • Avoid overhead watering during bloom.
  • Thin crowded clusters to one or two fruit once they have set.
  • Walk the tree weekly and cut out any blackened, hooked shoot tip, well below the damage, sterilising the blade between cuts.

Summer

The fruit sizes and the harvest comes in, usually July into August for the Florida varieties.

  • Pick firm and ripen indoors. A pear ripened on the tree is gritty inside.
  • Keep cutting out blight as you see it.
  • Water during dry spells while the fruit is filling.
  • Do not feed.

Fall

Growth slows and the leaves begin to go. A quiet season for a pear.

  • Do not feed.
  • Look over the trunk and main limbs for sunken, dark cankers, which is where blight overwinters, and mark them for winter removal.
  • Rake up fallen leaves and fruit.
  • Keep mulch back off the trunk.

Winter

Dormant and bare, which is when a pear is easiest to work on and easiest to understand.

  • Prune now: open the centre, remove crossing wood, and take out anything growing straight up.
  • Cut out every canker you marked in autumn, well into clean wood, and sterilise the blade between cuts.
  • Do not feed.
  • Expect it to flower early. A Florida pear is often in bloom in February.
We are not listing pear online at the moment. What goes to the booth and what is on the website are not always the same thing. Come and see us at the booth, or reply to any reminder email and ask, and we will tell you what we have.

All care guides

This page is the one printed on your sign as usatree.com/pear. It will stay at that address.