Blueberry

Quick care

Blueberry

Soil acidity decides this one. Get the pH right and blueberries are among the easiest fruit here; get it wrong and nothing else you do matters.

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Right now: Fall

Growth slows and next spring's flower buds set, which means this autumn quietly decides next year's crop.

What to do

  • Stop feeding.
  • Keep watering. A bush that goes dry now sets fewer flower buds, and you will not find out until March.
  • Check the pH, which is easier to correct now than in the middle of flowering.
  • Top up mulch before winter.

The quick care card

The same three columns as the sign on your plant.

Planting and the first 30 days

Sun
Full sun, 6+ hours daily.
Soil
Acidic, well-drained soil is best.
Planting
Plant slightly high, not too deep.
Mulch
Add 2 to 4 inches of mulch, but keep it away from the stem.
Water
Daily for the first week, then 2 to 3 times weekly for the rest of the first month. Keep soil evenly moist.
Feed
Use an acid-loving fertiliser lightly after the plant settles in.

Ongoing care

Water
Keep soil moist, especially in dry weather.
Feed
Feed in spring and again later in the growing season.
Prune
Prune lightly after harvest.
Best production
Usually comes from planting more than one variety.

What to expect

Growth after 1 year
Often about 3 to 5 feet, depending on variety and care.
Fruiting
Small crop possible early, better harvests in years 2 to 3.
Pollination
Usually self-pollinating, but a second variety improves yield.
Key tip
Blueberries like acidic soil.

Full care

Vaccinium corymbosum

Acidity is not a preference, it is the whole thing

Blueberries need soil between pH 4.5 and 5.5. Not six, not neutral. Below about 5.5 their roots can take up iron; above it they cannot, however much iron is present. A blueberry in the wrong soil yellows between the leaf veins, stops growing and dies slowly over two or three seasons, and no amount of watering, feeding or sympathy changes that.

So test before you plant, with a cheap probe or a county extension test. If you are above 5.5, the honest options are a raised bed or a large container filled with an acidic mix, rather than trying to acidify open ground, which works for a season and then reverts.

Three habits keep it right once it is right. Mulch with pine bark, two to four inches, renewed yearly, which acidifies gently as it breaks down. Never use lime, and be careful with mushroom compost and most municipal composts, which are often limed. And check your irrigation water, because well water in parts of Lake County is alkaline enough to undo the soil underneath a plant over a few years.

Southern highbush, and why that matters

A northern highbush blueberry needs eight hundred or more chill hours and will never fruit properly here. Southern highbush varieties are bred for low chill: Emerald wants about 250 hours and Jewel about 200, which Central Florida reliably provides. This is the single most common reason a blueberry bought online from out of state never crops.

Plant two

Southern highbush blueberries are self-fertile, so one bush will fruit. But cross-pollination between two varieties gives bigger berries, more of them, and an earlier harvest, and the difference is large enough that we would rather sell somebody two plants than have them disappointed by one. Emerald and Jewel are the pairing we recommend, because they flower together and ripen in sequence, which stretches the picking season.

Feed with an acid-loving fertiliser, the sort sold for azaleas and camellias, and feed lightly. Blueberries have fine shallow roots that burn easily, and too much fertiliser is the second most common way people lose one.

Through the year

The four notes we email, all in one place.

Spring

Flowering finishes and the fruit fills. Central Florida blueberries ripen early, often from the middle of April through May, which is weeks ahead of anywhere further north.

  • Never let the plant dry out while the berries are filling. This is the one time of year watering is not optional.
  • Net before the fruit colours, not after. Birds find them the day before you would have.
  • Feed lightly with an acid-loving fertiliser once flowering is over.
  • Pick every two or three days. A ripe blueberry comes away with a roll of the thumb and is sweeter two days after it turns blue than on the day.

Summer

Harvest ends and the bush puts on the growth that will carry next year's crop. This is the pruning window.

  • Prune lightly once picking finishes: take out the oldest canes at the base to keep young wood coming.
  • Feed lightly a second time.
  • Renew the pine bark mulch to 2 to 4 inches.
  • Keep watering through dry spells, mulch or no mulch.

Fall

Growth slows and next spring's flower buds set, which means this autumn quietly decides next year's crop.

  • Stop feeding.
  • Keep watering. A bush that goes dry now sets fewer flower buds, and you will not find out until March.
  • Check the pH, which is easier to correct now than in the middle of flowering.
  • Top up mulch before winter.

Winter

Chill hours accumulating, and in a warm winter the first flowers opening in January or February.

  • Do not prune hard. Blueberries fruit on two and three-year-old wood and a winter haircut costs you the crop.
  • If flowers are open and a frost is forecast, throw a cloth over the bush for the night.
  • Do not feed.
  • Water during a long warm dry spell. Mild Florida winters are drying, not dormant.

Blueberry varieties we grow

Grown here in Eustis or bought in from Florida nurseries in our network.

The full growing guide Shop blueberry All care guides

This page is the one printed on your sign as usatree.com/blueberry. It will stay at that address.